Japan Pulse

Where are the lines drawn with super cool biz fashions?

This summer, encouraged by the government’s Super Cool Biz campaign, Japanese men are daring to bare a bit more flesh. As neckties and heavy blazers are discarded, almost anything goes, and many braver businessmen are now sporting calf-length trousers, polo shirts and “aloha shirts.” For the first time female colleagues are seeing their male coworkers in a whole new light, but according to a poll by Nikkei Woman Online, there’s a fine line to be drawn between kakui (cool) and kakkowarui (unattractive).

The poll, published in Nikkei Trendy, reveals that too much flesh in the office can be a bad thing. Revealing tank tops were the most objectionable office-fashion item, with 90 percent of 409 respondents rating this “NG” (thumbs down). Shorts came in a close second, at around 80 percent NG. While most women did not object to plain short sleeve shirts, if the material is sheer, around 60 percent of respondents preferred men to wear a vest underneath to cover up exposed nipples and chest hair.

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Tokyo’s luxurious department stores are seeing a new trend toward sober women’s fashion this summer as a direct consequence of the earthquake on March 11. Comfortable trousers, sensible shoes and muted colors are the order of the day, according to J-Cast, who polled the city’s department stores on sales figures since the quake.

If the shoe fits the occasion ...

It’s estimated that about 3 million people had to trudge home on the day of the quake when the city’s transport network came to a virtual standstill. Among them, we remember seeing a huge number of OL (office ladies) painfully making their way home in heels. That memory has stayed with women, many of whom are opting to buy ballet flats and low heels (not sports shoes but shoes that can be worn to the office or out on a date). In Matsuya Department Store in Chuo Ward and Ginza, for example, after mid-March sales of ballet flats shot up 50 percent.  A large department store in Shinjuku also reported a 50 percent increase in sales of walking shoes.

Sales of summer trousers for the misses demographic (women in their 30s to 40s) at Mitsukoshi Department Store in Nihonbashi are up 6 percent. “Many customers say that ‘If something happens, I want to be wearing clothes in which I’m free to move in.’ We’re seeing that trend continue,” a sales manager at Mitsukoshi told J-Cast. In Ginza’s well-established department stores, some stores are reporting a 10 percent rise in sales of women’s trousers.

Color schemes are also dampened. This year’s hot colors were expected to be red and orange in line with global trends, but a sales manager at a Ginza department store reports that white, beige and light blue are being favored over bold colors as are natural fabrics like cotton and linen.

Along with casual Super Cool Biz trends, we can expect to see a much more sober style adopted by women this summer as they tackle the psychological effects and practical concerns of a postquake world.

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Emergency koala biscuits from Lotte

Disaster gear tends to be, well, a little frumpy, or, in the case of Japan’s rather weird disaster hats, just downright ludicrous looking. So what’re trend-conscious Tokyo-types to do when the ground starts shaking for the trillionth time? Some are turning to Danish brand Yakkay for the answer. Their trendy hard hats have been selling like hot cakes since the quake hit, according to Tokyo Walker. Though they’re aimed at cyclists, the hats on sale at Rotator Store, Marui’s specialist bicycle store, have been worn elsewhere. Marui’s PR manager points out that they have been spotted on train passengers as they make their commute to the office.

So what other funky disaster-related products are out there? Here are but a few:

• Silver Hello Kitty disaster kit: Though this kit does contain the dreaded quilted disaster hood, it also has a funky pink Hello Kitty bandana inside to don once the tremors have subsided, allowing kids to regain their street cred. Also inside are a blanket, torch, pillow and pouch. Demand appears to be high. At the time of writing this item is sold out on Jishin Bousai Netto (Earthquake Disaster Prevention Net) and Amazon.
• Black rhino disaster kit: Again for kids, but we think adults could get away with sporting this funky matte-black rhino-shaped bag. Contents include: a whistle, a torch, aluminum sheet, tissues, pen and memo pad, cotton gloves and hand towel.
• Silver disaster jacket for dogs: Dogs need to stay safe too. This stylish coat can double as a stretcher for injured dogs and is waterproof in case it pours down. Inside its pockets are items that humans will find useful in an emergency.
• Lotte Koala Biscuits: If you’re forced to eat boring old dry biscuits, you might as well have them in funky shapes. This five-can set of emergency treats will do nicely.
• Blue jumpsuit: Politicians wearing this stunning sky-blue item will be able to show that they’ve really taken charge in an emergency. The suit also signifies that they are working hard alongside the common man to bring an end to a crisis. Supposedly, anyway. Watch out for grumpy movie directors who might sneer at your stylish threads. They’re just jealous!

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Two kilo jeans from Eight-G

Here’s a product that’s designed to sort the men from the boys,  the carnivores from the herbivores:  2 kilo jeans. Since they went on sale in October 2010, demand for these extra heavy, extra thick denim trousers has been high, with popular sizes now available on pre-order only, according to Nikkei Trendy.

Typical jeans come in at around 11 to 15 ounces, but recently there’ve been a few new styles made that weigh over 20 ounces. Eight-G, the company behind these new jeans, have taken that micro-trend and run with it, manufacturing a pair of jeans that weigh in at a hefty 28 ounces. The jeans are custom made at Eight-G’s, Jeans Center Sakai store in Ishikawa City, Chiba, with sewing machines that were specially altered to be able to bite through the exceptionally thick denim fabric. All that effort means that this new product comes with an equally hefty price tag of ¥33,000.

The jeans have been featured in men’s lifestyle magazines Lightning and Daytona Bros, both of which target an audience who hanker after an outdoorsy American lifestyle. The positive publicity has evidently worked and they’ve proved a hit with bikers and denim lovers in their 30s and 40s who are keen to take up the challenge of wearing these heavy-duty jeans.

Part of the charm is trying to get them soft enough for comfort. You’ve really got to work to wear in these monster trousers: a newly bought pair is stiff enough to stand up on its own and the front button is particularly difficult to fasten. Presumably wearers will have to adopt a rolling, straight-legged cowboy gait in order to get around in them, perfect for scoring big macho points. Unfortunately. as we move into spring, they’re liable to make you sweat buckets on a hot day, putting a dampener on your hard-fought macho cool.

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Zozotown's T-shirt has the names of all supporting brands on its back

Since the quake hit Japan on March 11, devastating northeastern parts of the country, people worldwide have shown their support by giving generously to charities organizing relief efforts in hard-hit regions. Japanese celebrities and brand names are also encouraging people to donate by organizing benefits and releasing special T-shirts, with profits going to the cause. Here are some of the tees that you might want to think about.

Online shopping mall, Zozotown’s Start Today t-shirt, impressively gives all of its ¥2,100 price tag directly to the Japanese Red Cross Society. In collaboration with its numerous suppliers (including A Bathing Ape and X-Girl), Zozotown takes care of the manufacturing, handling and postage charges (within Japan). The front is emblazoned with the message “Start Today,” and on the back are the names of all the suppliers who are collaborating in the relief project. The T-shirt can also be bought by overseas buyers (with additional postage costs). At the time of writing an impressive ¥309,908,000 had been donated to the cause.

Chinatsu Wakatsuki's charity t-shirt

AA, the solo project of Ueda Kishi of the rock band Mad Capsule Markets, has come up with a striking black t-shirt that boldly makes its point with “We’re Not Alone” printed on a clenched fist. It costs ¥3,500 and all proceeds, again, go to the Japanese Red Cross. Hardcore rock band Brahman have teamed up with fashion brand Virgo to create their charity tee, also at ¥3,500, with proceeds being donated to relief efforts. On the front, “Wake Up” is printed over a arresting image of a figure with its arms raised, while its back simply states  “Re:Birth.”

Singer Ayumi Hamasaki’s simple “H♥PE” shirt is a feminine white tee, with a pink heart as the “o” in “hope.” Designed in collaboration with ViVi fashion magazine, it’s available for ¥1,500. Similarly using the heart symbol, celebrity idol Chinatsu Wakatsuki, who runs her own successful, if rather unfortunately named brand, W♥C, has based her design on the iconic “I ♥ NY” T-shirt. Her “I ♥ Japan” tees cost ¥2,100 on the W♥C website with all proceeds going to the Red Cross.

Designers, too, have come together to create original tees, including several international names that can be found on T-shirt printing company Sweatshop Union’s Rebuild project (all tees are ¥1,400 with all profits going to the Japanese Red Cross) and on Tomodachi Calling, with shirts for around $45.

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Will fishing girls follow in the footstep of mountain girls?

Fueled by a desire to get fit and out of the city, not to mention the prospect of a funky new wardrobe, Japanese women have been exploring the great outdoors in ever-increasing numbers. The running trend, followed by the yama (mountain) girl trend, have been a boon for vendors of outdoor/sports wear. But what about more sedentary girls who like the clothes but don’t fancy breaking a sweat? If the hype keeps up they might soon be a new less-active outdoor tribe to join.

Recently, Nikkei Trendy tipped fishing as the next big thing for women in 2011. In keeping with the pattern, the women of this nascent trend have been dubbed “tsuri jo” (fishing woman) or “tsuri garu” (fishing girl), though we’ve yet to hear about these phrases enter common parlance so marketers have their work cut out for them this year.

Cool gear, though, might hook them. The ransuka (running skirt) and yamasuka (mountain skirt) did wonders for popularizing running and mountain climbing. Will the tsurisuka be next? As far was we know, manufacturers aren’t exactly targeting fisherwomen yet, fishing gear maker Daiwa Globe Ride has at least gone out of its way to make fishing cool. Last month, the brand teamed up with uber-hop fashion label A Bathing Ape to create a line of cutting-edge fishing gear under the label of  A Fishing Ape, comprising camouflage-patterned fishing jackets and lures.

If Daiwa casts its lines right, it could make a pretty profit off of tsuri girls. According to Insight Now!, other manufacturers of cheaper fishing gear from Taiwan, China and South Korea could also get into the game. Will they be successful in luring the young female market? A sign of things to come can be seen at  Japan Fishing Festival, March 25-27. A seminar for female fishers has been scheduled, as well as a meet-n-greet vent for the anglers’ idol, Aica. Will she become a role model for budding tsuri jo?

Photo by Kintaiyo [GFDL or CC-BY-3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

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A selection of steteco from Steteco.com

Men’s underwear is going retro in Japan, with steteco leading the pack. Steteco are “long trunks” that date back to tight trousers worn in Japan as early as the 14th century. The knee-length pants loosened up along the way and were just the thing to wear under hakama or kimono in the Meiji Era, and they made a comeback with the mass production of gauzy crepe fabric in the 50s. By the 1970s, blue jeans and the “new traditional” look had relegated the storied drawers to the top drawers of aging dads. But now, as old-man cute makes a global fashion comeback, the old briefs are young again.

In 2008, Steteco.com, a sub-brand of an intimate apparel maker called as, not only started making a youthful version of them, they called for nothing less than a world-wide steteco revival. “The first time I wore them under a suit, I loved how comfortable and absorbent they were, and how nice it was to come home, take off the suit, and just relax in them,” the head of the “Tokyo Labo” says on their site. “We decided to show the world how great life can be with steteco.”

Their vision has been catching on. In addition to Japanese fashion brands like Uniqlo and United Arrows, big international names are also bringing out their own versions. Hanes is about to put out a line in March, calling them “Neoteco.” Some have loud Hawaiian prints while others stick to a more traditional palette of sober stripes and plaids. The colors and  length recall surfers’ board shorts, but the fabrics are lighter and the silhouette is a bit slimmer. Levi’s made some, now apparently out of stock, to look like stone-washed jeans in blue and black. Company catalogs show both men and women wearing the basic models, and there are also low-rise women’s versions with lace trim.

Haramaki briefs from Wacaol's Lunch

Not so into the loose and breezy thing? There’s plenty more neo-retro for you, too. Check out the new shorts with a wide, stretchy haramaki attached at the waistband. A haramaki is a traditional Japanese undergarment, a warm and snuggly woolly wrap that people —　mostly older men and women of all ages and most famously, Tora-san — wear wrapped around their waists in the winter to keep warm. Wacoal saw the market potential of adding the stomach wrap to their men’s lines after their women’s version sold well over the last several years. Women wear them at temperature extremes, Wacoal found, to protect against both winter weather and overactive summer air conditioners. Now they’re gambling that guys might like to keep their midriffs warm and have a little extra slimming support at the same. The shorts come in boxer and brief varieties, in bright bold colors and small flower patterns.

Since these are being released just as the weather is starting to warm up, the real goal may be more about fashion than old-man practicality. That said, picnicking on those blue tarps at the early spring hanami is always chillier than expected. Going full length with haramaki tights might not be a bad idea.

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Brother, can you spare some shoes? Japanese men are being encouraged to swap their shoes via a new online service called 4 Jigen (Dimension) Closet, which launched this month. To register, men simply upload information about a pair of shoes they’re willing to loan out and once that’s done, they can borrow a “new” pair of shoes from an online collection of secondhand shoes for a small fee. The fee, which usually comes to around ¥525, covers a cleaning service and postage.

Before you borrow some shoes, simply register a pair of your own

For those who like to keep in step with the latest styles, the concept definitely has an upside: Puma, Lanvin and YSL are just some of the brand names already available. And if you’re worried about using other people’s whiffy shoes, be assured that the cleaning process is pretty thorough: The company behind the scheme, 1K, sticks the shoes in a washing machine, scrub ‘em with a toothbrush, buff them and deodorize them before finally putting in new insoles.

According to Fashion Snap, the idea was the winner of a competition sponsored by Skylight Consulting which is aimed at encouraging the start-ups of twentysomethings. If it’s successful, 1K  intends to expand the service to include other clothing items. But will today’s fastidious male be willing to swap shoes with a complete stranger?

One good indication for the future fortunes of 4 Jigen Closet is that the economic downturn seems to have made the Japanese less squeamish about buying secondhand clothing. A recent article in The Japan Times reported that secondhand book store Book Off are now expanding into the clothes market and sales of secondhand apparel on online store Rakuten are taking off.

The concept of getting something for next to nothing is also at work on Livlis, a site on which you can acquire other stuff for free (if you’re willing to pay delivery charge at the other end). A beta version of the Twitter-powered site went live in December last year. Originally set up for residents of Kawasaki City last year, the site now offers its services nationwide. At post time, electronic gadgets, video games, textbooks and an Ikea desk were among the items on offer. If you have clutter, it certainly beats paying the haikibutsu shori guys. Be warned that people also tweet stuff they want to sell on the site, so make sure the item you’re after is flagged 無料 (free) before you send off a message.

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